silicone in cosmetics

Wrinkle-free skin, shiny hair, long-lasting make-up: silicone makes it possible, but it is also said to be harmful to the skin and the environment. Is that correct?

Silicone is a quick-change artist. It goes by a variety of names, and there’s very little it can’t do. This synthetic fabric is so versatile because it works like Lego. You can build short-chain, long-chain or ring-shaped silicones and branch them with each other as you wish. That’s why there are so many areas of application – whether for sealing joints, as breast implants, cake tins or to fill wrinkles. It’s no wonder that silicone is one of the most frequently used cosmetic ingredients – even if it has recently come under criticism. While some beauty manufacturers swear by it, it is taboo in natural cosmetics and is removed from some products by other conventional suppliers. Why is silicone so polarizing? what is advantage what prejudice? Answers to the most important questions.

DO SILICONE AFFECT HAIR?

Shiny hair is the epitome of attractiveness. This is why more than half of all shampoos and even 90 percent of all conditioners contain silicone. It wraps around each individual hair like a protective film, nestles protruding horny scales against the shaft and reflects the light. Critics claim that silicone residue builds up on hair, making it greasy and making coloring difficult. “In the past, that was often the case,” says Britta Klebon, deputy director of Garnier’s scientific department. “More water-soluble silicones are used today. For our ‘Fructis’ hair care we use z. B. ‘Amodimethicone’ which works with an attraction trick.

Since the molecules have a positively charged side arm, they specifically dock onto the damaged, negatively charged areas of the hair without weighing down the rest.” In terms of broken hair ends, silicone is actually the only thing that helps. While it cannot repair the hair, it can seal it in such a way that it does not unravel further.

DOES A SILICONE FILM DAMAGE THE SKIN?

What silicone can do to hair, it can do to skin: It forms a kind of water-repellent coat that protects against moisture loss. This makes it an ideal ingredient in hand creams and ointments for wounds, sealing it like a spray plaster. Above all, it is good that allergies to silicone are unknown. Silicone is also often used in body oils because it lasts forever, fixes fragrances on the skin and does not feel greasy. This has the advantage that you can slip into your jeans immediately after rubbing it in. Silicone has also been experiencing a real boom in so-called “wrinkle filler products” for a few years, which work on the principle of a joint filler. Due to the high doses of silicone, the face appears youthfully smooth – right after application. Sounds great, but it’s only one side of the coin. If there is too much silicone in a cream, sweat accumulates, the skin swells under the film and becomes brittle. In addition, unlike vegetable oils, silicone does not provide any care substances of its own, so that active ingredients always have to be added in order to create more than a superficial short-term effect. Creams that you intend to use daily should ideally only contain such amounts of silicone that it appears in the bottom two-thirds of the list of ingredients (see box).

WAS MACHT SILIKON IN MAKE-UP?

Have you ever wondered what makes mousse make-up so fluffy and lipstick kiss-proof? Although little is known, silicones play a major role in lipsticks, eye shadows and foundations. “Volatile silicones” are responsible for the fact that the products can be applied so smoothly and that the colors remain in place for hours. The special thing about it: As soon as they come into contact with skin warmth, the creamy part evaporates and solid particles remain, which feel powdery and fix color pigments.

DO SILICONES BURDEN THE ENVIRONMENT?

Measured against the quantities that occur, for example, in the car industry or in house construction, cosmetics containing silicone shouldn’t make a big difference from an ecological point of view, one would think. This may even be true for the production of silicone, which produces a great deal of climate-damaging carbon dioxide. But not necessarily when it comes to our water, because unlike seals that are tight, cosmetics containing silicone are rinsed off every day when washing, bathing or showering. A problem that should not be underestimated, warns the Federal Environment Agency. Around 330 tons of shampoo and conditioner were sold in Germany in 2007, which rushed down the drain together with the remains of cream and body lotion and ended up in the nearest sewage treatment plant. As the cosmetics manufacturers emphasize

“Unfortunately, that’s a fallacy,” says Harald Hanßen, head of department at Hamburg’s municipal drainage. “The fact that silicones are easier to wash out of the hair does not mean that they are also more biodegradable.” So what happens to our leftovers? Large silicones stick to solid particles that are filtered out of the wastewater. The smaller ones end up in the so-called “activated sludge”. In it, bacteria process the nutrient-rich waste water ingredients into sewage sludge and carbon dioxide – at least normally. This does not work with silicone, so it remains in the sewage sludge. This is burned in half together with the silicone in it. However, the other 50 percent is often used as fertilizer in agriculture because of its high nitrogen and phosphorus content.

“The fact that the silicone contamination from cosmetics has increased significantly in recent years is something we notice above all from the fact that our combustion engines for sewage gas no longer run trouble-free for 8,000 hours as they used to, but only 3,000 hours,” says Harald Hanßen. “The quartz sand that is produced when the sewage gas containing silicon is burned is deposited everywhere in the machines. In addition, harmful bacteria of the genus ‘Nocardia’ are increasingly occurring, which are seen as an indication of significantly increased silicone levels.” Anyone who wants to use the advantages of silicone-based hand creams, shampoos or wrinkle fillers without harming the environment should do so in moderation and in a targeted manner.

Crystal Waston MD

Crystal Waston has a degree in Cross Media Production and Publishing. At vital.de she gives everyday tips and deals with topics related to women's health, sport, and nutrition.

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