The big mess Recpies

From traditional southern French food to incredible stories and anecdotes about Dior, Picasso and Windsors, the new cookbook ‘Le grand bordel’ has it all.

The stories

In nine stories and 60 beautiful photographs by Gerd George, the reader learns why the recipes of Pablo Picasso’s housekeeper are used today in the Brasserie La Provence in Hamburg Ottensen.

The recipes

70 delicious recipes that are simple, varied and healthy are listed in the cookbook. Whether it’s a starter, main course or dessert, all dishes are described in the same way: mise en place (preparation), réalisation (instructions), presentation (serving). They are explained simply and understandably and are sometimes supplemented by small tips.

“A book about food, friendship and the mafia, about the jet set and Monsieur Nicolas, self-confident housekeepers, communism and Sarte, about Monsieur Dior and the plumbing trade. About the beauty of women and that of light and about remarkable waves, which the recipes of the cook washed up on the gray Elbe beach by none other than Picasso from the Côte d’Azur.”

“Le grand bordel” by Judith Stoletzky and Stephan Hippe , Becker Joest Volk Verlag, 232 pages, 37 euros

Two Tapenades

Green and black olive tapenades

“Having tapenade around the house is always handy. whether as an accompaniment to stewed meat, fried fish or simply on top of toasted croutons.”

Marlet

  • 500 grams of black olives
  • 250 g pureed black olives
  • 1 clove of garlic
  • 5 Sardine fillets
  • 6 dried tomato quarters in oil
  • 1⁄2 teaspoon chopped thyme
  • pepperpulver
  • Zucker
  • salt
  • 1⁄2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
  • approx. 400 ml olive oil
  • 500 g green herb olives
  • 250 g pureed green olives
  • 2 tablespoons capers (“nonpareilles”)
  • 1 teaspoon chopped flat-leaf parsley
  • 5 gherkins some honey

Establishment.

If the olives still have pits, these must of course be removed. A whole chapter could be written about the quality of olives; just buy the ones you like best overall, ideally those from Provence, of course.

Implementation.

For the dark tapenade, place black olives, dark olive puree, the peeled garlic clove, anchovy fillets, sun-dried tomatoes, thyme, a pinch of allspice, a pinch of sugar, salt and mustard in a blender. Chop the ingredients and pour in enough olive oil to make a homogeneous, creamy mass (maximum 200 ml). Taste and chill.

For the green tapenade, put green olives, green olive puree, capers, parsley, gherkins, some honey and salt in a blender. Repeat with the remaining olive oil as above.

Presentation.

Pour the tapenade into small jars and take with you to the picnic. Or cut off small dumplings and serve with meat or fish.

White Fish and Salmon Terrine

White fish terrine with home-cured salmon

“Nothing store-bought tastes nearly as good as a homemade fish terrine. the pride in success rounds off the taste. And this recipe is actually not that difficult. But make sure that all the ingredients are nice and cold when you use them.”

Marlet

  • 4 Eggs
  • approx. 9 g salt
  • 75 g Pesto
  • 2 drops of Tabasco
  • 1 teaspoon lemon juice
  • 1 pinch of sugar
  • 150 g marinated salmon
  • 2 tomatoes
  • 600 g loach fillet
  • 225 ml cream
  • Salat

Establishment.

Mix the eggs, salt, pesto, tabasco, lemon juice and sugar in the food processor and chill. Cut the salmon into small cubes and chill. Blanch the tomatoes, remove the insides and seeds and dice the remaining flesh (concasse). Clean the loach (remove tendons and remaining bones) and also cut into small cubes.

Implementation.

Place the loach in a food processor fitted with a blade. Chop quickly and vigorously while slowly pouring in the cream. Then add the egg mixture as well. If you want a particularly fine terrine, you should push the mixture through a sieve now, but it doesn’t have to be. Pour the mixture into a chilled bowl and mix well with all the other ingredients. Line a small terrine dish (approx. 750 ml) with baking paper (leave the edge overhanging). Fill in the fish mixture and cover with baking paper. Cook in a water bath in the oven at 175 °C (no convection) to a core temperature of 65 °C. Leave to cool well.

Presentation.

Turn out the fish terrine, cut into 1 cm wide slices and serve on a salad bouquet.

Fourme d’ambert tart

Tart with blue cheese, grapes, walnuts and radicchio

“Any blue cheese loses flavor and character if overheated. So always add it at the very end!”

Marlet

  • puff pastry
  • 2 tablespoons butter
  • 200 g fresh cream
  • 2 egg yolks
  • Muskat
  • salt
  • Pfeffer
  • 100 grams of walnuts
  • 300 g seedless grapes
  • 200 g Fourme d’Ambert or Roquefort cheese
  • 1⁄2 Radicchio

Establishment.

If you don’t want to make the puff pastry yourself, take it out of the freezer. The dough gets two more turns, which means: spread with butter, fold four times and roll out again. Do not let the puff pastry get too warm. Line a tart pan (approx. 32 cm) with puff pastry. Mix the crème fraîche and egg yolks, season with nutmeg, salt and pepper and spread over the dough. Roast the chopped walnuts and spread them on the tart with the cleaned grapes.

Implementation.

Bake the tart in the oven at 180 °C (fan oven) for about 15 minutes.

Presentation.

Crumble the cheese onto the warm tart. If it is already too cold, bake it again for a short time. Then spread the radicchio cut into fine strips on top.

Blanc-Manger and blueberry confit

Almond cream with confit blueberries

“This dessert belongs in the category: everyone has eaten it before, but no one knows exactly how to do it…
If you can’t find any nice fruit, just warm up your favorite jam and use it as a substitute for the compote.”

Marlet

  • 250ml milk
  • 50 grams of sugar
  • 60 g ground almonds
  • 4 gelatin sheets (36 g)
  • 2 drops of bitter almond oil
  • 125 grams of cream
  • 1 packet of vanilla sugar
  • 250 g blueberries (also frozen)
  • 2 tablespoons of sugar
  • 100 ml red wine pepper

Establishment.

Briefly bring the milk, sugar and almonds to the boil and ideally leave to soak overnight. Pass the liquid through a fine sieve to filter out the ground almonds.

Implementation.

Soak 3 sheets of gelatine in cold water. Remove 50 ml from the milk-almond mixture, heat briefly and dissolve the gelatine in it. Stir into the remaining liquid together with the bitter almond oil. Whip the cream with the vanilla sugar until semi-stiff and carefully mix both liquids together. Pour Blanc-Manger into small gratin dishes or small jars. Cool well and leave to set.

Washing blueberries if necessary is not absolutely necessary. Caramelize the sugar with a little water in a saucepan and deglaze with the red wine. Add the blueberries and bring to the boil briefly. Soak the remaining gelatine in cold water, squeeze out and mix with the warm but no longer boiling fruit. Pepper lightly and let cool.

Presentation.

If you want to turn out the dessert, briefly dip the mold in hot water. Place a mirror of blueberry compote on the plate and place the Blanc-Manger on top. Or add a layer of fruit compote to the cream and serve.

Crystal Waston MD

Crystal Waston has a degree in Cross Media Production and Publishing. At vital.de she gives everyday tips and deals with topics related to women's health, sport, and nutrition.

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