Unfortunately not, because their high pH value attacks the protective acid layer of the skin and dries it out. A good alternative are soap-free wash bars (syndets), whose washing-active substances also reduce the surface tension of the water so that it no longer rolls off the skin, but cleans deep into the pores. At the same time, however, they are pH-neutral, so they do not attack the protective film and also contain various care additives: such as moisture-binding panthenol and wound-healing allantoin for sensitive skin (e.g. “Sensitive wash bar” from Eubos, 125 g, approx. 4 euros). Or antiseptic zinc or anti-inflammatory copper against impurities (e.g. “Flexible Cleansing MeeresschlickWasch Syndet” from La Mer, 100 g, approx. 8 euros).
More than 60 percent of all German women grade their skinas easily irritable. At the same time, however, many of them have the feeling that their complexion can only be cleaned with lots of foam and water. A misconception, because lush foam only testifies to a lot of chemistry. And tap water can irritate sensitive skin with its lime residue. So-called micellar water, one of the biggest cosmetic innovations of recent years, is better suited for a sensitive complexion: It contains spherically arranged molecules that envelop make-up residues and easily remove them without having to press hard with a cosmetic tissue. At the same time, it contains soothing active ingredients such as cooling cucumber extracts or regenerative thermal water. A good alternative – and handy for air travel – are cleansing powders,
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3. Does my skin tolerate any cleansing?
Although it is relatively robust, skin problems can be “groomed” to it with the wrong cleaning aids. For example, normal skin reacts quickly to products that were developed for blemished skin and becomes brittle – because degreasing agents are far too aggressive for it. If the complexes of active ingredients are too rich and are intended for dry skin, the pores can become clogged and pimples can develop. Gentle, moisturizing cleansers are better – such as a mild cleansing gel that also soothes with aloe vera or rose extract and provides a lot of moisture. Normal skin is also happy about a light peeling once or twice a week, which removes dead cell cells and lets the complexion shine again. It is important that you use it on clean skin and do not misuse it for cleaning, because dirt and makeup does not remove it so thoroughly. Incidentally, the ideal time to exfoliate is before going to bed – this way the skin can regenerate even better overnight.
11 questions about daily facial cleansing
Korean women swear by the facial toner, often referred to today as “toner” or “tonic”, at the end of every cleansing session: it refreshes, moisturizes, balances the pH value and removes residues of previously used washing products as well as limescale particles from the tap water. “The latter in particular must be removed from the skin, otherwise they form free radicals in sunlight,” says Dr. Stefan Duve, dermatologist from Munich. Important: If you have a normal or sensitive complexion, use the alcohol-free version, only oily skin can tolerate high-percentage spirits.
5. Can cleansing with anti-aging ingredients actually smooth?
They cannot magic away the wrinkles, but they can prevent new lines. For example with antioxidants such as mulberry, vitamin E or C, which protect against free radicals (e.g. “Serum
7 Cleansing Lotion” from Boots Laboratories, 150 ml, approx. 15 euros). Or with ice plant, a particularly resilient plant from the African desert, which is said to stimulate the skin’s protein formation and thus cell regeneration. It is important to allow the ingredients enough time to take effect. “For them to have their full effect, they should be left on the skin for at least 10 seconds before removing them,” advises Dr. Stefan Duve.
We like it warmer in winter, but hot water causes the skin to swell and weakens its protective film. This flushes out oils and the complexion dries out even faster. In addition, high temperatures stimulate blood circulation and stress sensitive skin that is prone to couperose or rosacea, which then allows even more dilated veins to shine through. “In general, lukewarm water is ideal – sensitive skin usually even prefers cold water,” says dermatologist Dr. Stefan Duve.
7. What helps against panda bear eyes?
What you use to remove make-up from your eyes depends on your make-up: simple eyeshadow can be removed with a conventional cleaning product; as soon as creamy kajal pencils or waterproof mascara come into play, oil-based special cleaners work more effectively (e.g. “Eye Make-up Remover” from Maybelline New York, 125 ml, approx. 5 euros). Drip the liquid onto a cotton pad and run it from the outer to the inner corner of the eye. Then remove the mascara by wiping several times from the base of the lashes to the tips. Last remnants can be removed with cotton swabs. For those who wear contact lenses or suffer from neurodermatitis, mild variants are suitable, the pH value of which corresponds to that of tear fluid (e.g. “Mild eye make-up remover” from Avène, 125 ml, approx. 16 euros).
11 questions about daily facial cleansing
More and more cleaning products can be used as a wash gel, peeling or mask. This is practical for oily skin that is resistant, tolerates peeling particles even in daily cleansing and is happy when excess sebum is absorbed (e.g. in “Normaderm 3 in 1 Tri-Activ” from Vichy, 125 ml, approx 14 euros). Women with normal, dry or sensitive skin, on the other hand, are better off avoiding this combination.
9. Are cleaning wipes a good alternative?
Yes, these soaked fleece wipes are ideal for on the go: their ribbed surface clears a greasy T-zone with mattifying Airlicium, for example. For sensitive skin there are variants with gently cleansing micellar water. Woven cleaning cloths, each made of more than 15 kilometers of the finest yarn, are brand new. As a result, they have a large surface, can absorb many active ingredients and do not require alcohol, emulsifiers, fragrances or preservatives (e.g. “Moisturizing” from Filabé, 28 wipes, approx. 43 euros). The only disadvantage: In the long run, cleaning costs more than with conventional products.
It is well known that the activated carbon obtained from wood, peat or bamboo can clean the air and drinking water of germs and alleviate stomach problems. About a year ago, cosmetics manufacturers discovered the beauty talents of the “black diamonds” and have been using them in toothpaste, peelings and facial cleansers ever since. It owes its effect to its spongy structure, which attracts dirt, sebum deposits and bacteria like a magnet. This property makes activated charcoal a blessing for blemished skin – for example as a mask that is removed after 15 minutes with lukewarm water (e.g. “Clear Improvement Mask” from Origins, 100 ml, approx. 25 euros).
11. If you don’t wear make-up, you don’t have to clean up in the evening, right?
Yes, because over the course of the day, especially in cities, soot, exhaust fumes and dust are deposited on our skin that cannot be completely removed with pure water. And the gas ozone, the concentration of which can rise very high in summer and irritate the respiratory tract, also triggers inflammation on the skin. Especially on oily skin, a greasy film forms again from the morning wash, which not only clogs the pores, but to which such pollutants also cling for a particularly long time. So-called anti-pollution products have recently been available that remove the finest dirt from the environment with plant extracts such as aloe vera and broccoli and at the same time protect against free radicals (e.g. “Refine Cellular Detox Lipo Cleanser” from Dr. Babor, 100 ml, approx. 39 euros)
