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Desolate strands? No thank you!
Do you also think you would be doing your hair a huge favor if you really got rid of all ballast such as silicones and the like? And treat them to a detox treatment? There seems to be enough reason for the big headdress. “Silicone builds up in the hair”, “if you care for it too much, it hangs down powerlessly” – we hear that again and again. In the first 2-in-1 products, silicone initially did exactly what was expected of it: it closed microscopically small gaps in the cuticle of the hair, so that the surface was shiny, the hair was easy to comb and fell softly. Because oil is not water-soluble, more and more of the care substance could accumulate on the hair with frequent use. The result: desolate strands. Experts call this unloved phenomenon the “build-up” effect, which can still often be observed today – not only cosmetics critics claim this, but also, for example, the Hamburg hair stylist Dimitris Dimitrakoudis.
But anyone who rejects silicones across the board is making it too easy for themselves. “They have been used in hair care products since the mid-1970s,” explains Dr. Jeni Thomas. She is a member of Procter & Gamble’s Pantene Pro-V Hair Research Institute. “The diversity has increased enormously since then. A large number of silicones with different properties exist today.” Light molecules would e.g. B. used for the care of fine hair, while more complex oils are suitable for smoothing thick, unruly manes. Silicones, which evaporate after application, score points as a styling aid : Pantene uses cyclopentasiloxane, which improves wet combability, protects against mechanical stress and gives off a scent after the work is done.
Use silicone sparingly and correctly
At first glance it looks likeas if the statements of the scientist Dr. Jeni Thomas and the Hamburg hairdresser Dimitris Dimitrakoudis disagree. At second glance, however, it becomes apparent that black and white painting does not help with this topic either. like dr Thomas is convinced of Dimitrakoudis: The products must be tailored to the hair type and used correctly. Moreover, the blame for tired hair should not be placed solely on the silicone: Almost all modern repair shampoos use so-called “quats” – positively charged particles that attach themselves to negatively charged, damaged areas in the hair like a magnet on the refrigerator door. Again, congestion can occur when the gravitational pull of the negatively charged elements in the hair is greater than the hairstyle would like.
Against this background, anyone who no longer wants to reach for conventional hair care carefree will be asked to pay: Products with alternative care ingredients usually cost more because e.g. B. vegetable oils are significantly more expensive than synthetic. We could also use conventional products sparingly. In most cases it is sufficient to use conditioner only every second or third wash. This is easy on the wallet, hairstyle and the environment. Finally, the products end up in the waste water. For example, silicones pose problems for the waterworks because they are not decomposed by the bacteria in the sewage sludge.
Rinse instead of damaged hair
The detox discussion is fueled by sulfates. Above all , the surfactant Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLS), which is responsible for stable foam and good cleaning performance in shampoos. Its advantage: It removes shine-robbing lime residues. But it also has disadvantages. SLS works so well against fat that it breaks the skinand can remove valuable lipids from the hair. It also washes out artificial pigments more than other surfactants, making sulfate-free shampoos a better choice for colored hair. In addition, high-dose SLS shampoos can cause irritation on sensitive skin. Used in the right dose, Dr. Thomas, however, SLS would be “both gentle and effective”. In any case, a simple solution helps to protect the scalp from potential SLS stress: The shampoo should be rinsed out thoroughly – it sounds trite, but it is often neglected.
Do your hair a favor
The team of dr. Jeni Thomas has had his sights set on another type of ballast since last summer anyway: copper particles from the tap water, which penetrate the hair fiber and act as a source of oxidative processes, attacking the protein bridges in the hair and thus damaging its health. The new generation of products has therefore recently been equipped with substances that eliminate these particles. “The removal of oxidative minerals is much more important to hair health than we previously thought,” said Dr. Jeni Thomas.From the point of view of the Munich dermatologist Dr. Wolfgang Niederdorfer distracts the silicone debate from the main problem in hair care. “I see damage caused mechanically – for example by heat styling – far more often than overloading the scalp and hair with silicones.” His advice: In order to really do our hair good, we should heed the basics of care – don’t rub wet hair, but rather scrunch it Wrap in a towel, do not blow-dry hot, only use straightening irons on almost dry hair, and don’t forget UV protection in the sun. If you stick to it and use suitable, shine-giving products sparingly, you are doing your hair the greatest favour.
