Tolfi Oow

Magazine for wellness, fitness and health

How to balance your skin

… without fragrances, emulsifiers, surfactants and preservatives. Almost every second German woman complains about sensitive skin. You too? Read here how the skin regains its balance.
Foam battles, heavy cleansing and plenty of cream – for most of us, the skin can take a beating. With its “acidic” protective wall of horny cells and lipids (the protective acid mantle), it can protect itself relatively well against attacks from the outside and retain moisture inside. But sometimes it gets too much for her. For example, when fragrances irritate them or surfactants attack the barrier layer.

Interesting facts about oils

Controversial Mineral Oils: Don’t worry, they’re derived from petroleum, but cosmetic mineral oils are highly purified, odorless oils that rarely irritate skin or cause allergies. According to the latest findings by US dermatologists, they also do not provoke blackheads. (Vegetable oils such as sesame oil, coconut oil or cocoa butter, on the other hand, can certainly promote pimples.)
Their disadvantage compared to vegetable oils: Mineral oils have nothing in common with the lipids of the skin, so they cannot be absorbed and lie on the skin more like a protective film.

Then the skin sends an SOS – and reacts with redness, scales, burning, pimples , and in the worst case with an allergic reaction. You can find out whether you are prone to allergies with a simple test: scratch the inside of your forearm a little harder. If there are more white than reddish traces, you probably have a predisposition to have an allergic reaction. An allergy (except for the immediate type) often occurs with a time delay of at least 24 hours and increases over the next 48 hours. An irritation, on the other hand, shows up soon after using a certain product and also subsides quickly.

Possible intolerance reactions

The following groups of substances (details on the packaging) trigger intolerance reactions particularly frequently:

fragrances

Whether it’s body lotion, shampoo, washing-up liquid, candles, department stores or car seats: today almost everything smells. This odor overkill leads to intolerance and allergies in one to two percent of the population. Along with nickel, fragrances are the strongest contact allergens. This applies not only to artificial fragrances, but also to natural ones such as oakmoss, cinnamaldehyde, citral (in lemon and orange oil), citronellol (in rose and geranium oil), eugenol (in clove and cinnamon leaf oil) or geraniol (e.g. in lavender). , jasmine, geranium, rose, orange blossom, lemon peel). If you suspect one of these substances as a skin stressor: Switch to completely fragrance-free cosmetics for a while.

Only the best for the skin

emulsifiers

Ingredients such as lecithin, lanolin, cetyl alcohol or glyceryl stearate ensure that oil and water are permanently combined in a cosmetic product. In most cases, these emulsifiers are relatively well tolerated, problems are more likely to be caused by the impurities often contained in the basic substance. Traces of nickel are often found in lanolin (wool wax). The alternative: emulsifier-free cosmetics with a so-called DMS (derma membrane structure). In these creams and lotions, oil and water are mixed together under high pressure and by stirring for a very long time. The DMS (e.g. in products from Bepanthen, Biodroga, dermaviduals, Optolind, Physiogel) is similar in structure to the barrier layer of the skin, strengthens it and also ensures that other active ingredients can penetrate the skin better.

Silicone

Controversial Silicones: Silicone waxes and oils are the silver bullets of the cosmetics industry. The fully synthetic substances ensure that make-up glides smoothly over the skin, they fill in wrinkles and make straggly hair supple. They have no irritation or even allergy potential, but their care effect is also zero. Rather, they help keep skin and hair looking healthy and flawless—even when they aren’t.

The big minus of silicones in terms of the environment: they can only be partially degraded, the rest ends up in water and groundwater.

Tenside

Although they usually do not trigger allergies, they sometimes have a high potential for irritation. First and foremost, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS), a particularly strong foaming agent that is still found in some shampoos. Its more tolerable brother, sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), can also irritate the skin. Baby shampoos, of all things, often contain it because of its special effect: it numbs the eyeball for a short time, so the shampoo does not sting. The milder washing substances include cocostesides (e.g. coco glucoside, caprylyl glucoside).

Your disadvantage:They foam less and can dry out the skin without additional moisturizers. Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate (SLSA), which is approved by the BDIH for natural cosmetics, is a rather mild surfactant that forms a nice foam. Despite the similarity in name to SLS and SLES, it cleanses more gently: Its significantly larger molecules do not penetrate the skin as easily, which is why it is less irritating.

preservatives

They are added to cosmetic products to protect them from contamination by germs. The notorious parabens are not only criticized because of their possible hormone-changing effect, they can also trigger so-called pseudo-allergies: This is what doctors call hypersensitivity that is very similar to an allergic reaction but is not caused by an overreacting immune system.

Preservatives such as formaldehyde or the commonly used formaldehyde releasers (methylisothiazolinone, chloromethylisothiazolinone) have real allergy potential. They rank high on the awareness hit list. Experts estimate that two percent of the population is already allergic to these substances. An alternative to parabens and formaldehyde releasers is, for example, alcohol as a preservative. However, it can dry out the skin. Its chemical relatives glycerin or sorbitol (sugar alcohol) are milder.

Also useful: creams that were filled in tubes instead of jars. They manage with fewer preservatives because the user does not have to put her finger in the cream every time.

Interview with a dermatologist

Tolfioow: What distinguishes a skin irritation from an allergy?
dr Runnebaum: In the case of irritation , too many or the wrong active ingredients or too frequent washing irritate the skin. Symptoms go away as you change care. In the case of an allergy, the immune system defends itself against certain substances with flaking, itching, redness and inflammation.
Which ingredients most often lead to skin reactions?
In principle, all ingredients can cause irritation or allergies. Fragrances do this particularly often. Emulsifiers, preservatives and the so-called Peru balm, which is often found in wound ointments, also have a high allergy potential. Also lanolin and plant active ingredients from arnica, chamomile or tea tree oil.
So how does the skin get back into balance?
Once you’ve uncovered a “culprit,” be sure to leave it out. If the skin reacts irritated even to water, you can use so-called micellar solutions for cleaning. (Editor’s note: Special tensides easily and gently remove dirt and make-up particles from the skin, strong rubbing is not necessary.) Sometimes a zero therapy helps: do not care at all until the irritation has subsided.
Can a skin disease also be behind irritations?
That’s not uncommon. The smallest pimples around the eyes and mouth indicate perioral dermatitis. It is caused by over-care for the skin, i.e. too much of a good thing. Then certain skin bacteria feel comfortable and impurities appear. Redness, feelings of heat and pimples, on the other hand, are classic symptoms of rosacea.
Is the skin on the face more sensitive than on the body?
Yes, because it is thinner and less calloused. But because the regeneration rate is also five times higher than on the body, the face heals faster with one treatment.
Prev post Minor surgeries for skin
Next post Ingredients to mix in your bath water

Crystal Waston MD

Crystal Waston has a degree in Cross Media Production and Publishing. At vital.de she gives everyday tips and deals with topics related to women's health, sport, and nutrition.

Related Posts

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Back to top