The first nail polish shone in a transparent pink and was an unembellished by-product of the automobile industry. When it appeared on the US market in 1925, few women dared to come forward. Shiny nails are very popular today. The texture is smoother, the shine is more brilliant and the paint is more durable. However, most nail polishes, but also nail hardeners and nail polish removers still cannot do without chemicals. But the biggest culprits among the chemical additives are on the retreat. And – how nice: there are other methods to make the nails look like they have been varnished.
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Everything in paint?
Nail polish is one of the most popular beauty accessories.In 2008, sales increased by ten percent year-on-year to 31 million bottles sold, and the trend is upwards. Next year it will be matt. With classic red, elegant mauve and subtle beige, however, we sometimes brush problematic substances onto our nails. One of the usual suspects searched for in environmental labs is formaldehyde, which keeps nail polish liquid while penetrating the nail’s keratin cells and strengthening them. But formaldehyde is an extremely critical substance, can irritate the mucous membranes and cause cancer in the nasopharynx if inhaled. This is the result of an evaluation of new studies presented by the Federal Institute for Risk Assessment. Phthalates can damage the liver, kidneys and reproductive organs. They are used as softeners in nail polish to keep the coat of polish elastic and prevent it from peeling off quickly. Solvents such as toluene, acetone and above all benzene affect the internal organs and the nervous system. Researchers at the National Health Research Institutes of the USA found detectable damage to blood and bone marrow cells even at the lowest benzene exposure (1 millionth part).
In search of clues
In search of clues
“No panic”– reassure many manufacturers and refer to improved formulations, for example without formaldehyde. And instead of the solvents toluene and acetone, they rely on the gentler alternatives butyl acetate, ethyl acetate or isopropyl alcohol. “Most varnishes, nail hardeners and removers are actually harmless to health from a toxicological point of view. Because critical substances, if they are contained, are in most cases far below the legal maximum,” says an independent toxicologist. The situation is different with benzene. “A very aggressive solvent, highly toxic. And forbidden. Fortunately, we only find it very rarely,” says the expert. “In a healthy nail, however, hardly anything penetrates the horny layer. And as soon as the paint has dried, it is no longer biologically active and therefore harmless. Allergy sufferers and sensitive people with painted nails should still keep their hands off their faces to avoid skin irritation. When it comes to nail hardeners, some manufacturers still rely on formaldehyde as a strengthening agent. But it is also possible without, for example with hexanal, a molecule made of fatty acids. Potassium alum has also proven itself as a natural substitute. It forms small crystals on the nail and strengthens it.
Paint removers can do without acetone. But even the substitute ethyl acetate is not much gentler from a dermatological point of view. Alternative: remover based on pure alcohol. Although they have a somewhat longer start-up phase, they do not irritate the skin as much.
Bio-Lack
Brilliant prospects with organic paint?
Organic and nail polish are actually mutually exclusive. “Because the polish has to shine, dry quickly, be scratch-resistant and durable,” says cosmetics manufacturer Jerg Wohnhas, describing the challenges involved in producing an ecologically correct nail polish. His “Living Nails” nail polish contains organic alcohol, shellac, benzoin, natural essential oils and carnauba wax. “It’s basically edible,” says Jerg Wohnhas. The disadvantage: organic paint has to dry for 20 minutes in order not to stick and is only available in crystal clear. “So far I haven’t found any natural thickening agent that can bind color pigments in an alcohol-based varnish.” Tip: If you don’t want to do without color and want to protect your nails, you can use the organic varnish as a base coat.
Naturally beautiful nails
Nails are also naturally shiny – if they are cared for properly. Nail oils or creams provide the surface with nutrients that soap and co. bathe in everyday life. Best base: almond, jojoba, seed or nut oils. With anti-inflammatory extracts – eg from camphor, chamomile, kidney vetch or calendula. Great: nail care also softens the cuticles, which can then be pushed back more easily with a rosewood stick. It is best to massage in every day. Polishing files also add shine. Their different finishes eliminate unsightly ridges and discoloration, seal the nail surface and add luster. Looks (almost) like painted!
Good for the nails
Good for the nails
Nail polish “Living Nails” by Provida with shellac , “Source Organic Nail Polish” by Alessandro with organic alcohol .
Nail polish remover Without acetone: “Living Nails Nail Polish Remover” by Provida , “Nail Polish Remover” by Santé . “Nails Hands Feet Correct it Nail Polish Corrector” by Douglas (3 ml, approx. 5 euros). “Gentle Nail Polish Remover” by Isadora .
Nail care “Nail Oil” from Organic Pharmacy , including lemon oil (30 ml, approx. 27 euros), “Nail Oil” from Dr. Hauschka, including neem oil (30 ml, approx. 17 euros), “Foot and nail oil” from Just Pure with peppermint and grapefruit oil (100 ml, approx. 32 euros).
Nail hardener Without formaldehyde: “Diamond Hardener Nail Hardener” by Artdeco (10 ml, approx. 11 euros) “Base Coat Nail Hardener” by Dior (10 ml, 17.50 euros).
polishing files e.g. by Koh, Artdeco, Douglas, Alessandro.
