Radiance – what is that actually? Lovers seem to glow from within. We smile when we are really happy or when we return from vacation feeling deeply relaxed. But the luminosity of the skin is not always pure magic, it is often simply based on physics. In a study by the Ludwig Boltzmann Institute in Vienna, test persons estimated people with a dull, irregular skin tone to be ten to twelve years older than they really were. Consistently, other scientists have found that changes in special light-absorbing molecules in the skin – called chromophores – determine how young we look.
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The important trio of skin
The chromophores include the skin pigment melanin, the blood pigment hemoglobin and collagen, which strengthens the skin and stores moisture. Together, this trio affects skin tone, luminosity and overall skin appearance. Today, researchers (e.g. at Procter & Gamble Beauty) can even create a kind of map of the age of the skin using so-called chromophore mapping. Her findings: The collagen density and distribution decreases slowly but continuously from the age of 10 years. Its two allies, melanin and hemoglobin, change drastically between the ages of 30 and 40:In young skin, both are evenly distributed, so the complexion looks wonderfully even. Later, the skin produces more of it, and both combine irregularly with each other. This leads to brownish pigment spots, red veins and an overall restless skin tone. Unfortunately, it makes us look old and our skin dull and tired. It is well known that nobody can turn back time. But thanks to clever technology, creams and make-up products can restore your skin’s youthful radiance. We’ll show you the tricks that beauty producers use today to make your complexion shimmer like it did when you were 30.
The new tricks from the cream jar
Replenish energy stores
What do most people drink in the morning to wake up? A cup of strong coffee. This caffeine kick also tastes good on the skin and replenishes the cells’ energy stores. Polynesian noni extract and vitamin C can support the caffeine effect. The three active ingredients complement each other in their effect, and new transport systems in serum form also ensure that the awakening of the skin not only lasts for a short time, but continuously for up to eight hours (e.g. “Tolfioowskin Sérum Anti-Fatigue Dynamisant” by Darphin**, 30 ml approx. 50 euros).
Soft focus for the complexion
If a particularly large amount of melanin collects under the skin, brown pigment spots appear and the porcelain complexion is passé for the time being. This is usually due to overactivity of the enzyme tyrosinase, triggered by UV radiation or the natural aging process. It causes the pigment cells to produce too much melanin, which shows up as spots and discolouration. A new active ingredient called B-Resorcinol acts like a gentle eraser on the blotchy complexion. The trick: B-resorcinol combines with the enzyme tyrosinase and thus prevents increased pigment formation.
Wholemeal & drums bring freshness to the face
Food for radiant complexions
There is a lot that is good for the skin in nuts, whole grain products, seafood, lentils and cheese. For example, the trace element zinc – it reduces irritation and an uneven skin tone. Manganese has a balancing effect on the stress hormone norepinephrine, which constricts blood vessels when you’re hectic, leaving your complexion looking pale and dull.
Do the butterfly
Simple, but ingenious: apply refreshing facial tonic to the skin and then gently and rhythmically drum all over the face with all your fingertips. It feels like raindrops and wonderfully stimulates blood circulation in the skin.
According to studies, the first lightening effect should already be visible after four weeks, after twelve weeks an optically significant lightening of the pigment spots (e.g. “Even Brighter day care” from Eucerin**, 50 ml approx. 25 euros).
Accelerate microcirculation
In Asia, golden camomile extract is traditionally used to dye fabrics in bright golden-orange tones. Beauty scientists have now discovered that the plant also gives the skin a special glow: it promotes microcirculation, has a purifying effect and makes it appear fresher and rosier. So-called lipopeptides from lupins also increase the microcirculation of the skin by allowing tiny blood vessels to sprout. This improves the oxygen distribution in the skin and nutrients can be transported to the cells more easily – the complexion also benefits from this (e.g. “Sensai Cellular Performance Lifting Radiance Cream” from Kanebo, 40 ml approx. 215 euros; “Life Radiance Cure d’energie vitaminee” by Decléor, 10 ml approx. 26 euros).
Shimmering with mother-of-pearl
Pearls, whether from the South Seas or Asia, have this incomparable shimmer. So it makes sense to incorporate mother-of-pearl pigments into a cream as a radiance enhancer. In combination with rose-colored mineral pigments or ground semi-precious stones, they give the complexion a natural rosy shimmer, fill in the finest wrinkles and, thanks to their transparency, adapt to every skin tone like a chameleon. Three more advantages:These natural pigments even tolerate extremely sensitive skin very well, they are guaranteed not to dry out, and they act like a natural, albeit low, sun protection filter because they reflect UV rays, i.e. divert them from the skin (e.g. “Neovadiol Lumiere” from Vichy**, 40 ml around 28 euros; “Vinexpert Bonne Mine” by Caudalie**, 40 ml around 40 euros; “Morning Beauty Rescue” by Erno Laszlo, 50 ml around 129 euros).
Beauty for the skin with new creams
Light on with seaweed
If you are lucky, you will experience a sensational natural spectacle on an evening on the beach: the glow of the sea. It assumes, among other things, self-luminous marine animals and plants, for example the microalgae Pyrocystis noctiluca. It can emit light particles (photons) with the help of an enzyme. Beauty experts have now been able to obtain a glow booster from an extract of the algae and incorporate it into a skin cream. This algae extract is said to improve the radiance of the complexion by up to 43 percent just 15 minutes after application (e.g. “Lumiluca” by Daniel Jouvance*, 40 ml approx. 25 euros). Coral-colored astaxanthin is also obtained from algae, especially blood rain algae. This super antioxidant is 100 times more effective than the cell protector vitamin E, strengthens the network of collagen fibers – and brings the desired luminosity (e.g. “Brightening Cream” from Astalift*, 30 g approx. 65 euros; “Système Dermatologique D7-3 Crème Rouge” from Maria Galland*, 50 ml approx. 75 euros) .
Foundation with prism effect
New shine effects let tired skin shine again in an instant. For example, the “Prisma Light 360” technology. There are two types of pigments in one foundation: transparent ones with a mirror effect, which filter the light and amplify it on the skin’s surface, and multi-reflection pigments, which scatter the light in all directions and thus cleverly distract from wrinkles. Make-up with rice extract, which stimulates cell respiration, improves microcirculation in the skin and thus activates the luminosity from within (e.g. “Lumi Magique Make-up” from L’Oréal). Paris, 30 ml approx. 16 euros; “Parure de Lumière Fluide” by Guerlain, 30 ml approx. 48 euros; “Pure Light Make-up Fluid” by Yves Rocher*, 30 ml approx. 22 euros).
Powder with silk & opal
The new high-tech powders conjure up a complexion that shimmers like satin. They contain, for example, finely ground pink opal crystals or pigments that are coated with amino acids, so they adapt perfectly to the skin tone and at the same time last particularly long. Also new is a so-called “Light Optimizing+” complex, which captures the light, diffuses it on the skin and amplifies it at the same time. This conceals wrinkles and irregularities. Other soft focus agents contain the finest silk powder, which firstly has a strong moisturizing effect and secondly gives the face a silky matt glow (e.g. “Illuminating Powder” from Dr. Hauschka, approx. 21 euros; “Skin Illusion Fond de Teint Poudre Libre” from Clarins, approx 37 euros; “Wild Craft Highlighter Powder” by Essence, about 3 euros).
Rouge with crystal pigments
The face can be modeled wonderfully with rouge, and a soft shimmer also brings a fresh radiance. In addition to delicate red cheeks, spherical and lamellar powder particles in modern rouges ensure optimal reflection of the light. This effect is supported by mother-of-pearl particles. A brand new process is called “True Vision”: A kind of transparent coat of crystals envelops the finely ground rouge pigments. This results in particularly brilliant, long-lasting colors with strong radiance (e.g. “Golden Jungle Diorblush Brun Canelle” from Dior, approx. 53 euros; “Phyto-Blush Eclat” from Sisley, approx. 59 euros; “Pure Color Blush” from Estée Lauder , about 38 euros).
When you relax, your skin glows
We have at Dr. Stefan Duve, dermatologist in Munich, and wanted to know what options there are in addition to the creams.
Tolfioow: Apart from creams, what else can women do when their complexion looks tired and dull?
The be-all and end-all is the regular removal of loose dead skin cells, which often lie on the complexion like a gray haze.
What is the best way to do this?
Peelings are ideal at home, regardless of whether they are mechanical with rubbing particles or a very mild enzyme peeling. Depending on the skin type, the dermatologist can use chemical peels with different substances or completely new exfoliation methods, such as the Jet-Peel-3, in which a mixture of water and gas dissolves the horny cells very gently yet thoroughly. This is good for sensitive skin with a tendency to couperose.
What else affects the luminosity?
Clearly: permanent stress without recovery phases and lack of oxygen. Both reduce blood circulation in the skin and thus the supply of nutrients. Result: The skin appears gray, powerless, matt.
