Stress, an unhealthy lifestyle and hormonal changes make things difficult for sensitive skin . But it is also affected by UV rays, cold, wind and dry heating air. “All of this can damage the wafer-thin barrier layer that forms a kind of protective wall. If it is disturbed, it becomes more permeable to irritants, bacteria and germs,” explains the Berlin allergist Dr. Martin Miehe from the Professional Association of German Dermatologists.
According to a study by the University of Hamburg, 44 percent of women stated that they suffered from sensitive skin . Ascending trend. “On the one hand, we have many more older people with dry, dehydrated skin, which is naturally more sensitive,” explains the dermatologist. “On the other hand, there are more and more young people with an increased risk of allergies , since the skin’s resistance has decreased as a result of improved hygienic conditions. And thirdly, people are more attentive than they used to be: they register every tingling and tightening. Patients then complain about discomfort that cannot be determined objectively,” says the expert.
The fact is that today we come into contact with many more allergenic substances than in the past. “People have 10 to 20 different pots and pans in the bathroom and like to experiment with each other,” says Dr. Rent from experience. Read here what you can do to calm sensitive skin.
Avoid care overkill
Many skin reactions have nothing to do with an allergy to a specific active ingredient, but are the result of over-care or incorrect care.
Overdressed. Impure, oily skin can also react sensitively. Anyone who treats them with high-fat products (e.g. water-in-oil emulsions) can trigger “cosmetic acne” (swelling, wheals) or “perioral dermatitis” (pimples and reddening around the mouth).
Too lovely. Some cleaning agents or lotions with a high alcohol content can attack the protective layer of sensitive skin and have a drying effect.
Too many different active ingredients. In a care series, the active ingredients are coordinated and compatible with each other. If you combine products from different lines or even from different manufacturers, irritations are possible. They often show up first on the extremely thin skin below the lower eyelid.
Minimalism in a jar
“Less is more” is the motto of many companies. They limit their products for sensitive skin to a minimum of active ingredients and do without everything that is known to be irritating: fragrances, colorings and preservatives as well as emulsifiers. Today, many two-phase products do without emulsifiers: you have to shake them to combine the oil and water phases. Betulin from birch bark (e.g. “Creme Pur” from Imlan, 50 ml approx. 12 euros) and phospholipids (e.g. “Nature med Sensitive” from Sans Soucis, 30 ml approx. 30 euros) act like a natural emulsifier . In addition, hermetically sealed packaging (e.g. pump dispensers, tubes) makes it possible to do without preservatives and colorings .
Fragrances – not all irritants
Although only one to three percent of Germans are allergic to fragrances, the consequences are severe – from itching to severe contact eczema . Therefore, 26 fragrances (synthetic and natural) are now subject to declaration due to their high allergy potential. Provided that they are contained in creams in a higher concentration than 0.001 percent; for products that can be rinsed out, such as shampoos, the limit is 0.01 percent.
The INCI list (International Nomenclature for Cosmetic Ingredients), which must be printed on the back or packaging of a product, provides information about this (information: www.evz.de and enter the search term “scents”). “But there are also fragrances that do not trigger an allergic reaction and are tolerated by sensitive skin. This includes some essential oils that also have an antibacterial effect,” explains allergist Professor Torsten Zuberbier from the Berlin Charité Allergy Center. “Whether something is irritating or not often depends on the overall recipe and the concentration of the fragranceaway. For example, some fragrances are not a problem if their content is below a certain threshold.” Ideal for anyone who is bothered by the inherent smell of fragrance-free products are allergy-friendly creams that carry the ECARF seal from the European Center for Allergy Research Foundation and contain low concentrations of fragrances (e.g “Dr. Caspari Hormoderm” by Diadermine, 50 ml about 10 euros).
Table of Contents
Products for sensitive facial skin
Super soft cleansers
Sensitive skin is picky. If water is very calcareous, it can cause irritation. Soft cleaners are therefore ideal , which can only be removed with a cosmetic tissue and no longer have to be rinsed off. Products with micelle technology are currently in vogue. Special surfactants, i.e. washing-active substances, envelop the dirt and make-up particles and remove them easily and gently from the skin – without having to rub hard. Gentle alternatives for everyone who likes to wash themselves with water are mild coconut surfactants. Ideal for thin-skinned people: foam that does not require emulsifiers. For example: “DermatoClean 3:1 cleaning fluid” with micelle technology from Eucerin**, 200 ml approx. 13 euros; “Neutral Cleansing Foam” from Lavera, 100 ml approx. 7 euros or “Micellar Cleansing Water” with mallow from Lierac**, 200 ml approx. 16 euros
Sedatives
Skin-related substances such as the skin lipid squalane or the moisture binder urea (up to a maximum of five percent) relieve itching and are most likely to help a dry, irritated complexion. Products with the active ingredient neurosensins slow down the release of inflammatory messengers (e.g. face cream “Toleriane Ultra” from La Roche-Posay**, 40 ml approx. 20 euros). But also medicinal plants such as lemon balm , which balances sensitive combination skin, or marigold (calendula) are real calming agents for stressed facial skin. For example: “Face Cream Lemon Balm” by Dr. Hauschka, 30 ml approx. 18 euros; “Rich day cream” with calendula from Nivea Visage, 50 ml approx. 5.50 euros or “Sensitive face cream urea 5%” from Sebamed, 50 ml approx. 12 euros
SOS help
Sensitive skin is particularly thirsty. If it does not get enough moisture, it becomes brittle and feels rough. Soothing masks , moisture-binding concentrates with sugar molecules (e.g. Aquabioryl ) and vegetable oils that cover the skin with a velvety protective film provide quick relief: it protects it from moisture loss. And if it really “burns”: Spray on flavored vinegar water – that was already an insider tip against itching in Empress Sissi’s time and also strengthens the protective acid layer of the skin (e.g. “Vinaigre de Toilette”, approx. 20 euros from www.quell-online.de ). Other products: “Therapy mask med” from Biomaris*, 50 ml approx. 20 euros; “Aqualia Thermal”, concentrate from Vichy**, 30 ml approx. 18 euros or “Almond Beneficial Face Oil” from Weleda, 50 ml approx. 15 euros
Special make-up
If your complexion doesn’t get along with normal make-up: switch to mineral make-up especially for sensitive skin. It consists of high-purity mineral pigments. Extremely finely ground, they ensure smooth application in powder, rouge and eye shadow. Foundations or cover sticks that are free of preservatives and fragrances are ideal . There are also nail polishes that do not contain irritants such as toluene and colophony (e.g. from Santé). Other products: “Couvrance”, correction stick with SPF 30 from Avène Thermale**, approx. 13.50 euros; Rouge “Unifiance Blush Stretch” by La Roche-Posay**, 6 g approx. 16 euros or “Derma Makeup” by La mer Med**, 30 ml approx. 21.50 euros
Products for skin & hair
Relaxation program for the body
Sensitive, dry body skin also needs oil and moisture on a regular basis. It starts with the shower. Ideal: mild shower gels and moisturizing shower oils, eg based on safflower oil from the safflower, which is rich in essential linoleic acid. Gently but thoroughly cleanse, for example, with sugar surfactants made from starch and fatty acids. Unlike other surfactants, they are not big foamers. Rich body lotions wrap the body in a protective cocoon. An active ingredient mix of vegetable oils and urea stimulates the formation of antimicrobial peptides in the skin, which as natural defenses strengthen its barrier and protect against bacteria. For example: “Sensitive shower oil F” from Eubos**, 200 ml approx. 8 euros; “Sensitive Balance”, body lotion from frei**, 200 ml approx. 10 euros or “Freistil perfume-free”, shower gel with moisture-binding aloe vera from i+m*, 200 ml approx. 9 euros
The main thing is gentle
Especially in autumn when the room climate is bone-dry or outside under caps and hats, many people’s scalps are itchy. To avoid further irritation, only wash and blow-dry your hair lukewarm . Not only extracts from aloe vera and peony have a soothing effect, but also eucalyptus and mint oil (menthol). Due to their cooling effect, they stop itching immediately. Brand new at the hairdresser: hair color that is also suitable for sensitive scalps. The formula is free of ammonia, fragrances and perfumes, but rich in gentle plant extracts and special pigments. For example: “Shampoo Peony” by Klorane**, 200 ml approx. 7 euros; “Sensitive for a sensitive scalp” from Head & Shoulders, 300 ml approx. 4.50 euros or “Igora Senea”, permanent hair color from Schwarzkopf Professional*
Worth a try: organic fragrances Although
they are no guarantee that irritation will not occur, those who cannot tolerate perfumes with synthetic fragrances can try an organic fragrance. The plant substances come from controlled organic cultivation, alcohol and flower water are of organic quality, and the fragrances are certified with a corresponding organic seal (e.g. “Ecocert Organic”, “NaTrue”). Other products: “Honoré de Prés Nu Green”, 100 ml approx. 99 euros via www.greenglam.de or “Nuvola”, Natural Eau de Parfum by Farfalla*, 50 ml approx. 49 euros
Expert knowledge about the skin
Are There Mild Anti-Aging Creams?
The Munich dermatologist Dr. Patricia Ogilvie, dermatological and scientific consultant at Olay: “New active ingredient formulations such as hydraglycol gently support the skin renewal process and supply the skin with building blocks so that its protective function is retained. Anti-aging active ingredients such as amino peptides, which stimulate the formation of new collagen fibers in the deeper layers of the skin, are also well tolerated. Likewise retinaldehyde, the gentler version of retinol. A very good moisture binder is urea – ideal for dry skin. However, it may cause irritation on sensitive skin. However, this can be avoided in drug combinations with a lower urea concentration. The maximum concentration for the face is five percent.”
What does it actually mean…
…dermatologically tested? A dermatologist checks whether the product is compatible. That’s the rule.
…tested on sensitive skin? The tolerability and effectiveness of a product have been externally tested in an extensive clinical and epidemiological study and tested on patients with different levels of sensitive skin.
…hypoallergenic? Means the product has been tested on sensitive skin and known allergens have been excluded. But that is no guarantee.
…clinically tested? Denotes that a clinical study has been conducted by external, independent dermatologists that meets scientific criteria.
What role does the psyche play?
Uwe Gieler, Professor of Psychosomatic Medicine and Psychological Dermatology, University of Giessen:“Stress gets under your skin. There are clear connections between skin nerves and messenger substances that are active in the skin. Under stress, for example, the horny layer changes and loses more water, as studies on mice have shown. There were also stress experiments in which 30 to 40 percent of the subjects showed typical skin reactions. In other experiments, however, there was no reaction. However, one study showed a connection between people with sensitive skin and an increased tendency to anxiety and depression. Conversely, it was observed that people who relaxed during progressive muscle relaxation or yoga had less skin irritation as measured by histamine response and transepidermal water loss values.
Test: Is my skin sensitive?
With this little test you can quickly find out if your skin is sensitive:
- It is prone to redness and inflammation.
- It reacts to stress with pimples, red spots and itching.
- She is easily affected by cold, harsh winds and dry heating air.
- It stretches after showering or bathing.
- Immediately after contact with a care product, it reacts slightly irritated with a burning, stinging feeling on the skin.
Evaluation: The more crosses you make, the more sensitive your skin is. You can get them back on track with special care products. If the symptoms described do not appear until about 24 to 48 hours after applying a product, this indicates an allergy – a patch test by a dermatologist will then bring you clarity.
