Admittedly, the fact that sugar active ingredients care for hair and skin raises doubts. Too much sweets makes you fat and your teeth pitted, everyone knows that. How can that be good for the skin? “Yes,” says Guylaine Le Loarer, head of research at the natural cosmetics company Börlind. “In particular, sugars in the form of polysaccharides, i.e. sugar compounds that can provide a lot of moisture, are increasingly being used in creams – a real beauty trend.”
For a good reason: After all, there are naturally many sugar combinations in our skin . For example, they are important for binding moisture, supplying energy for metabolic processes and stabilizing the connective tissue. In addition, they enable the cells to communicate with each other. Because their fine surface antennae are coated with sugars. These receptors work like a uniform by which cells recognize each other and exchange messages. The still relatively new glyco-medicine (from the Greek “glycos” for “sweet”) is already developing drugs that specifically dock onto these receptors.
Will there be a sugar pill for beautiful skin on the market soon? That sounds tempting, but surely this coin would have a downside. After all, we’ve been hearing for years that sugar can harden our connective tissue over the years. And the manufacturers also offer a lot of creams against it. So does it mean: good sugar, bad sugar? We have made smart for you. So that you can find the care that sweetens the life of your skin and keeps you beautiful for a long time.
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What does the sugar do in the cells?
Diabetics can tell you a thing or two about it: A constantly elevated blood sugar level leads to cell damage because excess sugar accumulates on the walls. Something similar can happen if our metabolism becomes sluggish with age or if we eat too much sugar: If there is an excess of glucose, free sugar particles dock onto the elastic fibers of the skin. This is called glycation or saccharification. It makes the fibers rigid and immobile, and wrinkles form more easily. Beauty researchers have been developing new active ingredients for years to slow down this process. For example “Carnosine”, which is supposed to capture and bind the glucose (e.g. “Derm AoxSerum” from La Roche-Posay, 30 ml approx. 32 euros; “Olifting” from Medipharma, 50 ml approx. 12 euros). Or the active ingredient “Bay Cadar” from an Indian tree, which is supposed to promote the production of the body’s own repair proteins, which separate the sugar molecules from the elastic connective tissue fibers again (e.g. “UC Line Repair Day Cream” from Chanel, 50 ml approx. 95 euros ) . Is there a risk that the sugar ingredients in creams will promote hardening of the connective tissue? Guylaine Le Loarer: “No, because they are mostly polysaccharides and they are much too large to penetrate into the connective tissue.” If simple sugars are used, it has usually been proven beforehand that they do not cause glycation.
The skin has taken good care of it: natural moisture magnets, also known as NMFs (Natural Moisturizing Factor), regulate the water retention in its outer horny layer. In addition to amino acids, urea and mineral salts, these NMFs also include sugar compounds. Modern cream ingredients that are very similar to these “skin sugars” – e.g. B. Pentavitin from dextrose -, support the tasks of the NMFs: They connect with the horny layer and intensify the natural storage of moisture. However, scientists have discovered even more power in sugar active ingredients: the sugar alcohol gluco-glycerolfor example, can promote the formation of tiny natural water channels (aquaporins) in the membranes of skin cells. This improves moisture penetration down to the deeper layers, plumps up the skin and tightens it. What many laypeople don’t know: the popular wrinkle smoother hyaluronic acid is also a sugar compound! The same applies to alginate : the active ingredient obtained from brown algae, like hyaluronic acid, can bind far more than 100 times its own weight in water. The oat sugar also moisturizes the skin. And the simple sugar rhamnose even specifically stimulates the formation of elastic fibers in the connective tissue and thus achieves a lifting effect.
PRODUCTS: with Pentavitin: e.g. B. “Faces My Age Cooling Eyes Roll-On” by Lavera, 7 ml approx. 13 euros. With glucoglycerol: e.g. B. “Nivea rich body milk with Hydra IQ” from Beiersdorf, 400 ml approx. 4 euros; “Eucerin Aquaporin Moisturizing Care” from Beiersdorf, 40 ml approx. 16 euros. With hyaluronic acid: e.g. B. “Anti-Aging Repair Balsam” from Pharmos Natur, 50 ml approx. 84 euros. With alginate: e.g. B. “Regeneration Serum” by Dr. Hauschka, 30 ml approx. 40 euros . With oat sugar: e.g. B. “Lift Fermeté” by Clarins, 200 ml approx. 49 euros. With rhamnose: e.g. B. “Liftactiv” by Vichy, 50 ml approx. 29 euros.
Glyco-active ingredients put the skin in a holiday mood
The abbreviation DHA stands for a simple sugar that also occurs in the human body. “Dihydroxyacetone”, to give it its full name, is the most important substance in self-tanners because it reacts with protein components in the outer horny layer of the skin, which turns brown after three to six hours. However, since the skin is constantly renewing itself and flaking off, the tan will fade after a few days. In self-tanners today, DHA is usually combined with the active ingredient erythrulose, which has a similar structure. This so-called ketone sugar is obtained biotechnologically, e.g. B. from grain. Its advantage: erythrulose only tans after about 24 to 48 hours, but the tan looks more even and lasts a little longer.
PRODUCTS: e.g. B. “Sunshine Body Lotion” by Dove, 250 ml approx. 4 euros; “Ambre Solaire self-tanning gel” with caramel from Garnier, 150 ml approx. 8 euros; “Soleil Prodigieux Face” by Nuxe, 40 ml approx. 21 euros.
Do-it-yourself care peeling
For irresistibly soft lips, mix 1 teaspoon each of table sugar and honey until a paste forms. Use 2 tablespoons each of cane sugar and olive oil for a silky smooth body. Massage the paste into damp skin in small, circular motions until the sugar dissolves. Rinse, done!
Sugar beets and sugar cane contain a natural beauty acid that belongs to the fruit acids (alpha-hydroxy acids, AHAs for short). Today we know: Glycolic acid has the smallest molecule size of all AHAs and can therefore penetrate into deeper areas of the epidermis. It works like a chemical peeling that loosens the cement between the horny cells and loosens gray horny flakes from the skin’s surface. Effect: a fine, fresh complexion. High doses (up to 70 percent) of glycolic acid are only offered by dermatologists as a chemical peel – against sun damage, wrinkles or acne. Glycolic acid is much less concentrated in anti-aging creams (approx. 5 to 10 percent) or in care products for impure skin, which are usually recommended for use as a cure. The saccharic acid loosens blocked sebaceous glands, blackheads, reduces the thickness of the stratum corneum and increases the moisture content. At the same time, glycolic acid stimulates natural skin renewal, making the skin firmer and smoother.
PRODUCTS: With glycolic acid: e.g. B. “glyco mask” from niume skin technology, 10 ml approx. 39 euros; “Blemish + Age Defense” against pimples and wrinkles from skinceuticals, 30 ml approx. 70 euros; “High Peel” by Lierac, 40 ml approx. 34 euros.
Sugar surfactants protect the skin and the environment
They completely remove make-up and dirt particles, are well tolerated even by sensitive skin and are completely biodegradable. It is logical that cosmetics manufacturers are increasingly using sugar surfactants (e.g. from sugar beet or maple syrup) in cleaning products and shampoos. But the gentle cleaners can do even more: e.g. B. combine water and oil as emulsifiers to form a smooth cream, which would not work on its own. They also give the cream a special structure that resembles the outer horny layer. As a result, the care substances in it are particularly well absorbed. Other sugar surfactants strengthen the hair. In many styling products, they are now replacing the plastic polymers that previously provided hold: the sugars penetrate the hair, bind moisture and strengthen it from the inside.
PRODUCTS: e.g. B. “Derma Genesis refreshing gel mousse” from L’Oréal Paris, 150 ml approx. 5 euros; “Wrinkle Expert 3D Deep Wrinkle Care” by Diadermine, 50 ml approx. 9 euros; “Apple Milk Shampoo” by Lavera, 250 ml approx. 6 euros; “Silk regeneration shampoo for damaged hair” by Börlind, 200 ml approx. 8 euros; “Fructis Style Color Protection Hair Mousse” by Garnier, 150 ml approx. 3 euros.
Melted sugar is a great trick to get rid of unwanted hair. Because the sticky paste encloses each one, it is removed along with the root – in the direction of growth. This pulls less than epilation with hot wax (it is plucked against the direction of growth). It goes without saying that “sugaring” is THE new spa trend. Matching sugar peelings and – brand new – sugar massages are offered. Massaging with sugar gel creates a vacuum effect that activates the skin down to the deeper layers. This stimulates microcirculation and metabolism, makes the skin rosy, fresh and wonderfully smooth.
